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Unread postPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:55 am 
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hi,

My son's iMac G5 pws is starting to poop out. This is the iMac without the iChat camera.
On e-bay the pws goes for about a $100. Anyone know a good source for picking up an iMac G5 pws?

thanks.

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Unread postPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 12:05 pm 
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Have you taken the machine apart yet? Could be another case of bad capacitors.

http://thecapking.com/applg5.html

I replaced the bad caps in my eMac with a kit from that website. Worked out well. :)

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Last edited by zmttoxics on Tue Sep 14, 2010 12:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Unread postPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2010 8:47 pm 
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Ditto with the badcaps check.
These power supplies are madly hard to find refurbished.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:44 am 
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thanks.
Looks like we're going to run with the cap king kit.

I am glad i asked here first instead of buying a new power supply. Didn't know about the bad caps issue.

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Unread postPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:10 pm 
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bad caps have plagued a lot of apple's

emac g4, imac g5 1.8's, als, isights, g4 mdd psu's, and i seem to recall early g5 tower psu's...

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Unread postPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 4:40 pm 
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OK - surgery is turning into a problem on this imac. I am replacing the 1000uF caps and have removed the 5 old caps.
The new caps won't fit in the holes and one cap has a pin stuck.
What's the trick to cleaning out these holes in order to inset the new caps?

thanks.

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Unread postPosted: Wed Sep 22, 2010 4:50 pm 
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mnorton wrote:
OK - surgery is turning into a problem on this imac. I am replacing the 1000uF caps and have removed the 5 old caps.
The new caps won't fit in the holes and one cap has a pin stuck.
What's the trick to cleaning out these holes in order to inset the new caps?

thanks.

Copper strand and a good coating of flux.

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 5:13 am 
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Also, I recommend using a soldering gun for this, around 140W should do the trick. Soldering irons have a hard time keeping the heat on those thick PCBs (the multiple layers act like a big heat spreader).

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:15 am 
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zmttoxics wrote:
Also, I recommend using a soldering gun for this, around 140W should do the trick. Soldering irons have a hard time keeping the heat on those thick PCBs (the multiple layers act like a big heat spreader).


Especially when one end of the component is connected to a ground or power plane.

A big iron works well also and is easier to hold - 100W or so.

Sometimes you just need to hack leads to fit. Spaghetti sleeve any that are long enough to cause shorting problems.

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 11:58 am 
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The 1000 uF caps are off. There is solder in the holes. I got a closer peak at it with a large magnifying class.
I need to get the solder out of the holes.

What will do the trick here? I am using the soldering equipment in our electronics lab at work.
I have a desoldering iron here at work that hooks up to compressor. Will that be hot enough?

Or should I just stick with a big iron and copper wrap?

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 12:02 pm 
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You can try adding more solder in an attempt to get the copper to work. That or place the cap leads in the holes and heat the contacts with placing pressure to make them slide through while the solder is hot...

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 2:09 pm 
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get a thermostat controlled iron, I have... 60W (?)

that and some solder and a braid should be all you need... I've pulled grapefruit-sized caps out of amplifiers and the such (not to mention #6 stranded leads, et al) with just that. actually I used for the longest time a 40W iron that I got at RS for $4.99 with no problems- but it eventually died.

IMO flux is unnecessary unless you are soldering plumbing. :shock:

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 2:42 pm 
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sybrfreq wrote:
get a thermostat controlled iron, I have... 60W (?)

that and some solder and a braid should be all you need... I've pulled grapefruit-sized caps out of amplifiers and the such (not to mention #6 stranded leads, et al) with just that. actually I used for the longest time a 40W iron that I got at RS for $4.99 with no problems- but it eventually died.

IMO flux is unnecessary unless you are soldering plumbing. :shock:

Interesting your 40W iron did ok. My 40W Crappytire Mastercraft iron never worked on manufactured PCBs, and my new 50W Weller failed miserably as well. My Weller 140W Gun however had no troubles.

Flux helps clean the metals so the solder flows better. Essential when you want to ensure a solid bond, and definitely helps when trying to get it to move elsewhere - such as onto the braided copper.

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Unread postPosted: Thu Sep 23, 2010 3:29 pm 
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it's all in the tip! I've used fancy expensive irons with misshappen tips and they are completely useless.

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Unread postPosted: Fri Sep 24, 2010 10:07 am 
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sybrfreq wrote:
IMO flux is unnecessary unless you are soldering plumbing. :shock:


Rosin core kind of works, but getting a bottle of rosin flux improved my soldering quite a bit. It makes a difference, especially when repairing older boards.

To remove solder from holes:

Get one of those cheap "solder sucker" spring pump things. Sucker on one side, iron on the other, poke the trigger and presto - clean hole. Not as good as a real (nice) desoldering iron, but affordable.

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