O2 CPU Screw Springs - Is there a trick?

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Raion-Fox
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O2 CPU Screw Springs - Is there a trick?

Unread postby Raion-Fox » Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:36 am

I got an excess of thermal paste from some projects so I'm reapplying it on all my machines that have easily removable heatsinks. The O2's 4 spring screws came out easily enough but after application of new TG-7 I can't get the screws back down. Is there a trick to it? I used a t-handle hex and all of my upper body on it and it still won't screw down. It's made worse by the fact you can't apply but so much pressure to the CPU board without risk of stress.

Help me out here?
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japes
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Re: O2 CPU Screw Springs - Is there a trick?

Unread postby japes » Mon Mar 20, 2017 10:07 pm

Sounds like you got this back together? Any tricks? Oops, re-read your note to me and see you're still thinking on how to proceed.

I haven't researched thermal compounds in a while, and don't know much about the older products. Arctic Silver documentation mentions the particles filling the micro surface texture on the chip and heatsink to improve thermal conductivity. If it's dry I don't think that necessarily means it won't work - powdery or whatever, the material is still in place. Now if you're taking apart something that's been together for a long time I can see needing to reapply the thermal compound.

I took apart CPU modules for an Origin 2k years ago and forgot everything. From what you describe it sounds like the heatsink is clamped on well with spring pressure. I would be careful with heatsinks that have standoffs or bolt directly to a board or socket instead of directly bolting to the package or having a spring. Sometimes the manufactures use thermal pads, and simply applying a thermal compound probably isn't going to fill the space (and isn't designed to).
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Re: O2 CPU Screw Springs - Is there a trick?

Unread postby japes » Tue Mar 21, 2017 2:01 am

5mm is the size missing from my cheapo harbor fright metric allen set. I used a 4" straight 3/8" socket extension and a 5mm allen socket to take the bolts out of my spare R10k 195 MHz module, unless your R12k is really different it was cake to reassemble. I didn't need anything more than a straight handle to loosen the bolts. Upon reassembly, the threads engage before the bolt head and washer make contact with the springs.

I pulled the ratchet handle out and used it with my palm on over the bit to keep the torque down. I tightened everything until it engaged and then in a rotating star pattern like a car wheel lugs.

I grabbed some photos and did notice the springs can catch on a fin or something in the recess, but it would be strange to catch everyone. I also saw the retainer that goes on the back is directional, it will fit, but not cover the contacts if rotated 180 degrees. It has a plastic insulator of course.

heatsink0.jpg
heatsink1.jpg
heatsink2.jpg
heatsink3.jpg
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Raion-Fox
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Re: O2 CPU Screw Springs - Is there a trick?

Unread postby Raion-Fox » Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:29 am

To clarify, the thermal pads underneath the CPU module sink had dried out and become a powder-like substance I had to scrape off the chips. I dont have fresh thermal pads so my plan has been to use thermal paste as the pressure should force the space together. However I'm second guessing myself now and considering ordering a thermal sheet and cutting pad to size for it.

I'll take what you said and figure it out. I have a feeling it's user error on my part.
:Fuel: R16000 900MHz 4GB V12 6.5.30 reimu
:Indy:
:Indy: (Challenge S)
:O2: R12000SC 300MHz
Thinkpad W530 i7 3940XM 3GHz, 32GB, K1000M FreeBSD 11/Windows 7 rin
Acer Aspire 5157 (headless) 4GB, FreeBSD 11 kuran

http://projectkitsune.com

I develop FoxBSD, support the BSDs and UNIX scene in general.

Recovering Apple addict (2005-2014, $15k later), don't start - learn from my misery.


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