Nekochan Net

Hey, so I have this Indigo2, but it doesn't turn on at all.
Pressing the power button seems to have no effect. I opened it up, and noticed that whn I pressed the power button, a small led sometimes flashed on the scsi drive.
Are there any known problems that cause this type of symptoms?
Thanks for your help,
wheybags

Dead power supply, replace the electrolytic caps.

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-ks



See them all >here<

Is that a really major job?
Also, I presume you mean inside the psu?

http://www.sgidepot.co.uk/i2psu.html

Please pay attention to the remark about deadly voltages.

Success ... is most definitley not guaranteed.

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Now this is a deep dark secret, so everybody keep it quiet
It turns out that when reset, the WD33C93 defaults to a SCSI ID of 0, and it was simpler to leave it that way... -- Dave Olson, in comp.sys.sgi
Currently in commercial service: (2x)
In the museum: almost every MIPS/IRIX system.
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Thanks, I'll try that.
Any tips for not dying?

Don't microwave your brain
Don't walk in front of a speeding bus
Wash behind your ears

etc


Also make sure everything is discharged, heat sinks aren't hot (electrically hot), etc. Use a DMM to double-check. Don't touch anything you don't need to touch.

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(Maradona) (DavidVilla) A1186 (Xavi)
A1370 (Messi) dp43tf (Puyol) A1387 (Abidal) A1408 (Guardiola)

"InfiniteReality Graphics - Power Through Complexity"

Let it sit for a day unplugged.

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Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!

Systems available for remote access on request.

(single-CM)

I just did this same job on my Indigo2's power supply last night. I had the same symptoms, it would not turn on at all. The fan didn't even twitch when the power supply was plugged in. The parts were relatively cheap from DigiKey (shipping was as much as the parts and I ordered 4 of each value in 105 deg C rated caps to have some extras).

I'm an experienced solderer, but it was a bit of a pain to remove the old caps. What worked the best for me was to use solder braid to remove the solder from one of the two pads, then heat the other pad while pulling the old cap out. There isn't good enough access to the front side of the board to just clip the leads and then pull them out one by one, which is how I would usually do it. Once they were out, the pads can be cleaned up with some solder braid and the new caps go right in. I also used a vacuum bulb to pull solder out of the holes.

Changing the caps fixed the problem and she's now running as good as new.

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4x400MHz R12K Onyx2 IR2, 5GB RAM
R10K Indigo2 MaxIMPACT, 4 TRAMS, 768MB RAM, 2x9GB HD, CD-ROM, Phobos G160
Black Cardinal

pulling on components while heating the leads is not recommended; it's a good way to pull out the plated through holes (PTHs) on the circuit board. it's better to cut off the component using end-nippers and then desolder the leads individually (using enough liquid flux to fully conduct heat into the hole)

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Yes, exactly. You will get no argument from me, however as I mentioned there was no access to the component leads to get snippers in there (because of other components in the way). This is why it was such a pain.

Fortunately, the plating and board are of pretty good quality and can withstand some abuse.

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4x400MHz R12K Onyx2 IR2, 5GB RAM
R10K Indigo2 MaxIMPACT, 4 TRAMS, 768MB RAM, 2x9GB HD, CD-ROM, Phobos G160
Black Cardinal

now I understand

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On a related subject, has anyone seen the syndrome where the Indigo2 doesn't want to turn off? It starts as soon as the power plug is connected, and pressing the power button only makes it turn off for a fraction of a second before bouncing on again. I wonder what causes that?

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I seem to have fixed it by switching the "autopower" nvram variable from y to n. Still not sure why it would bounce when turning it off normally, it was as if it interpreted the power switch as a power failure.

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Top because I'm experiencing some flickering/jumping of the graphics output on a monitor connected to an Indigo2. Is this an early sign of power supply failure? I had something like this on an old 4D Twin Tower that later experienced a total failure (P/S capacitor blew up shortly after power on).

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